I doubt that many people, Italians included, are aware just how well Lacrima di Morro d’Alba wines can age. Made in the Marche region of Italy from the moderately aromatic red grape called Lacrima, the wine has clearly nothing to do with Alba or Piedmont (the Morro d’Alba name is a source of never ending confusion). Marotti Campi is the biggest Lacrima di Morro d’Alba producer in Italy, of which different versions are made: the Orgiolo is made from old vines planted on clay-rich soils at about 180 meters (roughly 600 feet) above sea level, is fermented in stainless steel and is aged twelve months in used French barriques.

The 2004 Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Orgiolo showcases to full effect just how beautifully Lacrima wines can age. Still dark purple-ruby with little or no rim, it offers almost explosive red cherry, dark plum, cinnamon, nutmeg and quinine aromas and flavors. Bright and fresh, this medium-bodied beauty has a suave, light on its feet texture and harmonious acidity that really extends the flavors on the long back end. At twelve years and counting, the 2004 is still lively and crisp. It will pair magnificently well with rich stews, grilled meats (duck and lamb are especially suited to its aromatic nature) or aged cheeses. 92/Drinking window: 2016-2020.

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